It started just minutes after touchdown in Turkey.
In a taxi journey across Istanbul’s intercontinental bridge to Fenerbahce’s stadium, the driver took a break from lighting up a cigarette or shouting profanities at other road users. He turned, looked me in the eye, and asked: ‘You know Mohamed Salah?’
Two and a half hours after fighting through mind-blowing traffic (think your gridlocked motorway at 5pm multiplied by 100), on arrival at Liverpool‘s press conference, one gentleman did not even exchange pleasantries. He shoved a selfie stick in my face and asked about Salah.
And these two encounters were 650 miles away from where the Egyptian player now plies his trade. This fandom was only a starter when compared to the main course of Salahmania that greeted us upon arrival in the port city of Trabzon, to the east of Turkey on the coast of the Black Sea.
Here, his face and name were everywhere you looked. ‘You come for Salah?’ enquired the hotel receptionist. Upon hearing that was indeed the purpose of the visit, he upgraded the room to a superior suite overlooking the ocean. Result.
The streets of this city, which feels a world apart from the bustling metropolis of Istanbul, never mind Liverpool, are packed with antique dealers, and markets selling two-foot-long fish for less than £1 and the local delicacy of hamsi (anchovy to you and me).
Mohamed Salah can relax in Trabzon and has taken multiple hiking trips in the highlands (Source: Instagram/Mohamed Salah)
Fans have now taken to posing at the same spots Salah appeared at – such is their hero worship
Everywhere you turned, there was a nod to Salah. His name was heard in conversations as the melodic call to prayer rang out from the nearby Hagia Sophia mosque, his picture seemed to be hung from every building and his name was on the back of every shirt being sported in town.
Shops were selling mugs, scarves, plates, masks and even cigarette lighters shaped like Salah.
At the futuristic waterfront stadium known as Papara Park, Salahmania continued – with punters putting on impromptu barbecues and DJ sets from beside their cars similar to tailgates in American sports. Everyone in this city was dancing to the beat of the Egyptian King.
Fans, many in Trabzonspor-coloured jester hats with bells on, glowed about Salah. Most do not speak a word of English in this city not far from the Armenian and Georgian border. But those who could summed up the mood.
‘We love him, he is going to make us champions,’ said one.
Another told us: ‘People across the country now support Trabzonspor and people come from other countries, people want us to win just because of Mohamed Salah.’
Trabzonspor supporters told Daily Mail Sport: ‘We love him, he is going to make us champions’
Everywhere you turned there was a nod to Salah in his new club’s kit
There were plenty of children in the crowd, and more women than expected. Some had come from afar to see him, others could not believe that Salah had chosen their team and hometown.
So, why Trabzon? Why did Salah choose this project in Turkey’s 30th biggest city? Why not one of the three Istanbul giants – Fenerbahce, Galatasaray or Besiktas – who have won 28, 27 and 21 Turkish titles respectively, compared to Trabzonspor’s seven, including only one since 1984.
The answers are obvious, according to sources. Salah, now 34, wanted a place where he could enjoy his football without the intense scrutiny. Every word and facial expression would generate days of news coverage in Liverpool or Istanbul or another one of Europe’s giant cities.
On the outskirts of Trabzon, Salah can relax, hiking up to a group of boulders in Yayla. Even there, he’s worshipped, though. Trabzonspor fans flock there to pose for photographs on the same rock where he sat for a photo posted on his Instagram.
Salah’s family are settled, he is becoming obsessed with chess and he has started drinking the Turkish salted-yoghurt drink ayran each day.
On the pitch, there is a belief Trabzonspor can beat the big three and end Galatasaray’s four-year grip on the title.
The team also stars former Liverpool midfielder Fabinho and ex-Manchester United goalkeeper Andre Onana, while Jerome Boateng, once a stalwart at Bayern Munich, is assistant manager. Boss Thomas Reis was poached from Ludogorets and has lost just once since his arrival.
Salah is settled with his family and faces less scrutiny than in Istanbul or Liverpool (Source: Instagram/Mohamed Salah)
Salah has scored 10 goals and assisted five more in his 15 games in Turkey so far
The highlight so far came on September 19, when Salah scored a hat-trick in a 4-0 thumping of Galatasaray. Trabzonspor have won seven league games in a row and will aim to go deep in the Conference League despite Thursday’s undeserved 1-0 defeat to Freiburg.
Salah has scored 10 goals and assisted in five more in his 15 games in Turkey.
‘Everyone wants to work with a star the size of Mohamed Salah,’ striker Paul Onuachu, once of Southampton, told us after that game. ‘He is a top guy and a world star.
‘He adds so much to us and helps all of us, thanks to his experience and quality, and he contributes positively to the development of our team.
‘I am grateful for him. It is a blessing to play with him.’
Salah did not have the rub of the green in the clash with the German side, who were Europa League finalists last year. But a trip to Papara Park underlined an answer to those wondering just why he picked Trabzon and not any of his other mega-money offers.
A man wearing Trabzonspor’s claret and light blue colours shows off his support for Salah
A trip to Papara Park underlined an answer to those wondering just why he picked Trabzon
He had approaches from America, and the Saudi Arabian federation tried to sign him right until the day he jetted into Trabzon – where he was greeted by 35,000 fans with fireworks and flares. Besiktas held advanced talks with Salah’s agent Ramy Abbas.
But Trabzonspor won the race and Salah is playing with a smile again, even though that face pulled a bit of a grimace when he spotted a familiar face or two from the English press pack waiting for him after the game.
His laugh faded into an expression that said: ‘I thought I got rid of you lot pestering me!’
That face confirmed his reason for joining Trabzonspor: Salah is out of the spotlight – certainly while still in with a chance to win trophies and maintain a good level of football until next summer’s Africa Cup of Nations.
After a public fall-out with Liverpool that saw the final year of his contract ripped up and him accuse the Anfield club of ‘throwing him under the bus’, it feels like Salah is feeling at home and happy again.
It’s not difficult to turn down the multiple opportunities to buy Salah-branded magnets or shirts or teddies or socks or lighters as we bid farewell to Trabzon, but it is hard to escape the conclusion that the feeling of love is mutual in this football-mad city.
